The inescapable 'Bear effect'

Q&A with Square's new chief marketer, Lindsey Irvine, on the company's latest campaign targeting restaurants

photo courtesy of Square

When, exactly, did the inner workings of a restaurant become so interesting?

If there’s one cultural touchpoint to, well, point to, it’s the 2022 arrival of hit FX series “The Bear,” lauded for its realistic portrayal of restaurant work and the characters within. In a summer 2024 analysis, New York Times critic at large Tejal Rao chronicled the rise of what she calls “the ‘Bear’ effect,” as phrases, actions, even Sharpies usually found in restaurant kitchens burst into pop culture.

(As an aside: In the middle of writing this edition of Expedite, I learned that Martha Stewart and chef José Andrés are set to host a cooking competition on network TV called, “Yes, Chef!” Ahem.)

Three years (and three “Bear” seasons) later, the effects of this show inside the restaurant industry are inescapable. And restaurant technology companies are launching slick and pricey campaigns that tap into this energy in an effort to level with restaurants.

A highly produced video series from payments and point of sale provider Square is the latest example. Actor / comedian / winemaker / one-half of the duo Tim & Eric, Eric Wareheim, stars in Square’s video series called “running a restaurant is no joke,” filmed inside three Los Angeles restaurants¹.

Episodes of this series live on Square’s website, targeting operators — yes, you’ll have to brave a lead-gen form that asks restaurants to input their estimated annual revenue before viewing the series. But it’s yet another example of this now-familiar marketing tactic of working very hard to convince potential customers that you really, really understand how business works. (It’s also very funny.)

I asked Square’s new chief marketing officer, Lindsey Irvine, about the campaign and Square’s continued marketing efforts. Irvine joined the company last summer and has lots of ideas (and plans, read to the bottom for those) to speak to Square’s current restaurant customers and attract new ones.

Our conversation has been lightly edited for length and clarity.

Expedite: I respond to campaigns like your latest series because, as I’ve long said, restaurants are always the exception. What works in other related industries — retail, hotels — doesn’t always translate to restaurants. Square is not just a restaurant company. How are you figuring out how to engage restaurants? How are you convincing them that a company that goes very wide can also go very deep in this specific, exceptional business?

Lindsey Irvine, CMO, Square: “It's important to also talk about the solution you provide. It’s one thing to talk the talk. It's another thing to back it up.